{"id":108,"date":"2021-08-09T13:00:28","date_gmt":"2021-08-09T13:00:28","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.reliquat.com\/?p=108"},"modified":"2021-08-16T17:17:23","modified_gmt":"2021-08-16T17:17:23","slug":"keltrian-worker-black-on-black","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.reliquat.com\/?p=108","title":{"rendered":"Keltrian Worker – Black on Black"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Bestiarum\u2019s August release is up and I wanted to put together a bit of a step-by-step for how I\u2019m tackling the Keliterians. I was certain from the moment I saw them that I wanted to do a strong glossy black chitin scheme, similar to an Emperor Scorpion.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Charming fellow I\u2019m sure.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Looking at this reference, the prevailing colour is of course the deep, glossy black but, what\u2019s interesting me most is those slight brown\/purple hues you can see in it\u2019s limbs. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Before we get into it, here’s a quick list of the paints I’m using:<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Black Templar Contrast – Games Workshop
Wyldwood Contrast – Games Workshop
Skeleton Horde Contrast – Games Workshop
Dawnstone Dry – Games Workshop
Flayed One Flesh Layer – Games Workshop
Black Wash – Vallejo
Druchii Violet – Games Workshop
Agrax Earthshade – Games Workshop
Athonian Camoshade – Games Workshop
Blood for the Blood God Technical – Games Workshop
Nurgle’s Rot Technical – Games Workshop

In addition, I’m using Vallejo black primer, Model Air White and Gloss and Matte Varnishes.
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Step One<\/strong> – Zenithal Basecoat<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Sweet sweet monochrome.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Per usual I\u2019m starting with a zenithal basecoat to lay out my shadows and give the contrast paint something to interact with.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Step Two<\/strong> – Contrast<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Love how quick you can get things looking decent with just a bit of contrast. <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

From here, I\u2019m going to quickly slap down some base colour with contrast. In this instance – Black Templar on the carapace, Wyldwood for the dirt, Skeleton Horde on the skulls and Basilicanum Grey for the stones. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

The release itself is more of a desert theme, but I opted for a dirt base to match the rest of my collection. If you\u2019re following along and wanted a desert look, try subbing out the Wyldwood for Aggaros Dunes or some other yellow-brown. Otherwise steps should be the same. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Step Three <\/strong>– Drybrush<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Dusty!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Once the contrast dries, I hit the model with some drybrushing. I\u2019m starting with a light grey on the Keliterian and the stones, then an ivory on the base. I\u2019m also applying a very small amount of ivory to draw out the key features of the sculpt – head, claw tips and stinger.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Step Four – <\/strong>Shade work:<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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That’s better.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

I\u2019m now going to slap down some initial shade over the model. I\u2019m starting here with an overall layer of Vallejo Black Wash on the Keltrian, taking care not to let it pool.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Mini review<\/em> – I\u2019ve only just swapped to Vallejo black wash and it\u2019s pretty decent so far, it\u2019s a little more flow-y than Nuln oil and dries lighter than it applies, but for a better paint-pot and price point I\u2019m happy to make the swap.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Contrast\/Drybrush\/Agrax is a great way of getting a nice, quick base texture.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Next, some Agrax Earthshade on the base, I\u2019m also applying this to the stones, note how this tonal change helps separate the black scorpion from the grey rocks.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Difficult to spot I know, look at the cheeks and around the stinger.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

From here, I used some Druchii Violet (purple) shade on the fleshier parts of the Keliterian and between the carapace plates, using the reference image from earlier as my guide.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Step Five <\/strong>– Building up the Black.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Darker and Darkerer<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Here, I\u2019m going to build up the black on the carapace, I\u2019m going to do this initially with Black Templar contrast paint.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I\u2019m adding a few more thin layers of Black Templar to the areas I\u2019d expect the chitin to be smoothest and hardest, I\u2019ll be hitting these with gloss effects later. I\u2019m aiming to get pretty close to pure black.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Next, we\u2019re going to apply some more Black Templar contrast to edges where two parts meet, for instance, I\u2019ve increased the darkness on his shoulder, where it meets the head to help draw attention to head itself. As we\u2019re working with black on black, the main tool in our arsenal for definition is tonal variation. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Darkerer and Darkererer<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Next, we\u2019re adding another layer of black wash\/shade to the model. Instead of an all-over coat, we\u2019re focusing our efforts on areas of texture and shadow, this is serving to further increase that subtle tonal variation between the chitin plates.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Step Six <\/strong>– Green<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Mossy stones is best stones.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

To finish off the shade work, I add a bit of green shade to the base with Athonian Camoshade. As green won\u2019t be present on the Keliterian, this will serve to further bring the sculpt out from the base and draw the eye.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Per usual, I\u2019m applying the green in patches to flat surfaces, using the shade more as a tint than to darken the crevices.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Step Seven <\/strong>– Basing Elements<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Not sure what this stuff is to be honest… I think it’s just pencil shavings.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

To cap everything off, I\u2019m adding a little flock to the base. This is great to help settle the piece and add a new, natural texture to offset the digital look of a 3D print.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Outside of desert species, Scorpions tend to live in damp locales with plenty of leaf litter, so I\u2019m using a brown flock-ish material. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

It\u2019s fixed with some PVA, allowed to dry then coated with another thin layer of PVA to fix it in place.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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I’m happier when things are duller.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Once dry, I\u2019ve given the flock a quick Drybrush with light brown, then washed with a bit of Agrax Earthshade.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Step Seven<\/strong> – Varnish<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Just like that, all our previous hard work is muted into a matte nothingness.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Next up, I\u2019m giving the whole piece a varnish with gloss (for protection) then matte varnish through my airbrush, this will standardise the paint finishes and augment the next step – more Shades and Washes!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Step Eight<\/strong> – More Shadwork<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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That’s better!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

We\u2019re going to back in for some more shade and wash work now, focusing on crevices and shadowed areas of the mini that need more definition, so no all-over washes. I\u2019m concentrating my efforts on the Vallejo Black wash and Agrax Earthshade, but you might want to work in a little more purple, or your chosen accent colour too.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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The purple effect is much more visible here.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Step N<\/strong>ine – Gloss Effects<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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I\u2019m finishing everything up with a bit of gloss effect paint, starting with my old staple, blood for the blood god, I\u2019m running the paint along the seams where chitin plates join and softer bits are exposed.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Finally, a little more gloss effects, this time clear varnish, thickly applied in patches on the base to create puddles, then a drop of Nurgle\u2019s Rot on the tip of the beast\u2019s stinger for a little drop of poison.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Step Ten –<\/strong> Finished!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

At this point, I\u2019m calling the model done. Overall I\u2019m pretty happy with the results, painting all-black schemes is loads of fun.<\/p>\n\n\n\n